The Polaroid SprintScan 4000 scanner for 35 mm film, probably introduced around 2000-2001, has a specified
optical resolution (on the film side) of 4,000 dpi, just like the high-end Nikon scanners. It accepts
mounted slides or film strips with an image width of 24 mm. Therefore, this model sounds potentially
interesting.
The plastic case is fiddly to open. The internal design is quite similar to the Nikon scanners (no
surprises here), including the light path and focusing mechanisms, but the light source of the SprintScan
4000 is a fluorescent tube and the CCD sensor has four rows of pixels, each with an integral color filter
(R, G, B and NIR). The physical size of this unit is closer to the Coolscan 8000/9000 than to the Coolscan
models for 35 mm film.
The SprintScan 4000 solves the most irritating problem I had with a Nikon 35 mm film scanner, i.e. that
after scanning half of a film strip, I had to extract the film holder, rotate it half a turn and reinsert
it to scan the other half of the strip. The SprintScan 4000 does away with this limitation by letting the
film holder exit through an opening at the rear of the scanner (in addition to the aperture at the front,
used to feed the film holder into the scanner).
The lens
Lens from Polaroid SprintScan 4000, epoxied into adapter in reversed orientation.
The lens of the SprintScan 4000 is small and housed in a cylindrical, blackened brass barrel without
markings, of a diameter just below 21 mm and just over 28 mm long. All optical groups apparently have been
inserted into the barrel from the end facing toward the sensor, and fixed in place with a retaining ring
sealed with thread sealant. I can see at least nine reflections of lens surfaces by peering into the lens
(of different colors, indicating different types of multicoatings). There is also a fixed aperture roughly
at the center of the lens. The approximate focal length is 40 mm, the lens speed f/3.6 judging from the
size of the film-side front element. The internal aperture seems to prevent off-axis light from passing
through the lens, rather than reducing the lens speed. The optical scheme is asymmetric.
Theoretical evaluation of the lens
Except for the 0.7 mm of the protecting window on the sensor, there is no glass in the optical path of the
scanner. As far as I know, this scanner did not use film carriers with glass. An f/3.6 lens is not so
sensitive to glass plates of moderate thickness in the optical path, so I do not expect the optical
performance to be substantially lower on digital cameras with filter stacks of ordinary thickness.
The sensor chip is large, with a length of the active area of 43 mm. Therefore, this lens magnifies the
subject by 1.8 x onto the sensor, unlike the lens of the Coolscan 8000. 43 mm is almost enough to cover
the diagonal of a 36 by 24 mm frame, and since full-frame sensors are just a bit shy of this size, the
lens should provide a good image on full-frame sensors at this magnification, possibly with the exception
of the extreme corners (I don't have a full-frame camera to test this). The 4,000 dpi specification
applies to the subject side with the lens in its original orientation, so the lens resolution on the image
side should be 4,000 / 2 / 1.8 = 1,100 lppi. This is a respectable resolution, compared to the CoastalOpt
60 mm Apo, and on par with some of the other best macro lenses.
Reversed, the lens of the SprintScan 4000 should be optimized at 0.55 x (i.e. 1 / 1.8) and cover a Micro
4/3 sensor (43 mm / 1.8 = 23.9 mm diagonal, which is more than the 21.6 mm diagonal of Micro 4/3).
Reversed, it should provide 4,000 dpi (2,000 lppi) on the sensor side. This is enough to match a 2,000 *
2.5 * 17.3 / 25.4 = 3,405 by 2,559 pixels sensor, or 8.5 Mpixel. 16 and 20 Mpixel sensors of Micro 4/3
cameras clearly outresolve this lens, but its image quality is acceptable if not a direct competitor
against a good macro lens.
0.55 x on Micro 4/3 gives a field of view of 31.4 by 23.6 mm, i.e. a little less than the field of view at
1x on a full-frame sensor. As a whole, however, the lens appears to be a better match for full-frame
sensors than smaller ones.
The lens in practice
I chose to mount the lens reversed in an improvised adapter (above picture) that happens to provide a good
mechanical fit with minimal risk for misalignment and decentering. The barrel of the reversed lens,
as is, provides a nice, shallow lens shade on the subject side that does not significantly reduce
the working distance.
Reality is somewhat different from theory in this case. The large majority of lenses provide a
significantly better resolution in the central portion of their image circle than at the edges. This is so
because it is much easier to correct aberrations at the center of the image circle than at its edges.
Improving the image quality in peripheral regions of the image circle almost invariably improves also the
resolution in the center. The center of the image circle, therefore, may end up performing better than
actually needed.
A lens designed for use in a scanner (or at least, in a scanner of good quality) requires the specified
resolution to be delivered up to the edges of the image circle. In other words, to provide a minimum
resolution of 4,000 dpi across the whole image circle, a lens may start with a higher resolution at the
center of the image circle (for example 5,000 dpi) and gradually degrade to 4,000 dpi at the edge. With a
sensor that captures only detail corresponding to the 4,000 dpi specified resolution of the lens, image
quality will be equally good across the frame, and both designers and customers will be happy.
Micro 4/3 demands a high lens resolution, but requires a smaller image circle than produced by these
scanner lenses. If the image circle of the lens is much larger than the sensor diagonal, it is quite
possible for a lens to completely cover a small sensor with the best part of its image circle (for
example, an area producing 6,000 dpi or more), and for the lens, on this sensor with smaller pixels than
the original target, to perform significantly better than its factory specifications. That is, if we are
lucky and everything works as hoped.
Lens tests
I made the following tests with different amounts of extension between lens and camera, to try and
identify which magnification range provides good results. First are reduced frames, and then 1:1 crops of
images of a steel ruler. The whole frame (topmost in each set in the illustrations below) allows the image
magnification to be computed (rulings in the images are 0.5 mm apart, while the sensor width is 17.3 mm
wide). The 1:1 pixel crops allow a visual evaluation of the available image detail. I am showing below
crops of the center (rightmost column in the illustration) and edge of the image (leftmost column in the
illustration).
Lens from Polaroid SprintScan 4000, 7 mm extension.
Top: whole frame, reduced. Bottom left: edge. Bottom right: center.
Lens from Polaroid SprintScan 4000, 14 mm extension.
Top: whole frame, reduced. Bottom left: edge. Bottom right: center.
Lens from Polaroid SprintScan 4000, 7+14 mm extension.
Top: whole frame, reduced. Bottom left: edge. Bottom right: center.
Lens from Polaroid SprintScan 4000, 28 mm extension.
Top: whole frame, reduced. Bottom left: edge. Bottom right: center.
Lens from Polaroid SprintScan 4000, 28+28 mm extension.
Top: whole frame, reduced. Bottom left: edge. Bottom right: center.
Lens from Polaroid SprintScan 4000, 28+28+28 mm extension.
Top: whole frame, reduced. Bottom left: edge. Bottom right: center.
The amount of extension (in addition to adapters at the lens and camera ends, which are in total another
13 mm) and magnification on Micro 4/3 are listed in the table below. Degradation of image quality with a 7
mm or 14 mm extension ring is visible in the 1:1 pixel crops, although it might be acceptable if the image
is not very large. A very slight degradation is still detectable at the edges with stacked 7 and 14 mm
rings. Using one or two stacked 28 mm rings produces the best IQ, with edges essentially identical to the
center. Above this range of magnification, image quality declines because of flare, rather than loss of
resolution.
Preliminary attempts indicate that this flare can at least be lowered, and perhaps eliminated, with
internal baffling and/or flocking. Flocking the internal surface of the lens shade may also help.
It may be possible to push magnification a little higher once flare is no longer a problem, but I have
some doubt about expecting excellent results at 3x or higher.
Working distance is roughly 90 mm at 0.77x, 60 mm at 1.4x, and 53 mm at 2.1x.
Extension
Subject width
Magnification
Notes on IQ
7 mm
66.5 mm
0.26x
good center, worse edges
14 mm
40.8 mm
0.42x
good center, slightly worse edges
7+14 mm
28.7 mm
0.60x
good center, very slightly worse edges
28 mm
22.6 mm
0.77x
best resolution both center and edges
28+28 mm
12.0 mm
1.4x
very good resolution both center and edges
28+28+28 mm
8.2 mm
2.1x
good resolution center and edges, but veiling flare in center
Chromatic aberrations
The following figure shows a ruler on a microscope slide, slightly inclined sideways with respect to the
normal to the optical axis. The out-of-focus extremities are a way to detect whether any axial chromatic
aberration is present. Axial chromatic aberration manifests as different colors on different sides of the
focus plane (often cyan on one side and magenta on the other). Transversal chromatic aberration would show
as a double fringing near the edges of the frame, with the same color of each fringe facing toward the
same direction (e.g. cyan toward the center and magenta toward the sides of the frame).
Strictly speaking, transversal color aberration is better detected with a ruler entirely in focus, but I
think you can trust me on the fact that it would make no difference in this case.
Oblique microscope calibration slide with 0.1 mm divisions.
Top: imaged at 0.77x. Middle: 1.4x. Bottom: 2.1x. Not to scale.
The above images show that there is no detectable axial chromatic aberration. There is no hint of color
fringing of any type. There is therefore also no detectable transversal chromatic aberration, although a
different test would be better for this.
There is a hint of what the Japanese call nisen boke (two-strokes bokeh) at the right end of the
ruler, especially at the higher magnifications. This side corresponds to the ruler being placed farther
from the lens than the focus plane. The defocus is creamier in the opposite direction. Since most of the
time the unfocused parts of a macro image are farther than the focus plane, it would have been better to
have the creamier defocus on the farther side. However, considering that the lens was not designed for
this use, and that the lens performance is otherwise excellent, this is a minor quibble. Most modern
lenses with significantly asymmetrical optical schemes have an asymmetric defocus about the focus plane,
as a consequence of overcorrection of spherical aberration.
The optimal 0.55x magnification derived from the construction of the scanner is close to the 0.60x that in
practical use gives very slightly worse edges than center (on Micro 4/3). Edges are, most likely, further
degraded on a full-frame sensor. The thickness of the built-in filter stack of the camera may play a role
in this degradation, and the lower filter stack thickness of DSLRs, compared to Micro 4/3 cameras, may
alleviate this effect and not make it twice as bad as in the present test. 0.77x is the best tested
magnification on Micro 4/3 in practice, still quite close to the nominal magnification of the lens as used
in the scanner. As a whole, I would recommend this lens as optimal for work from approximately 0.75x to
1.5x, reversed on Micro 4/3.
Conclusions
The lens of the Polaroid Coolscan 4000 film scanner is excellent for applications that
include stacking, at magnifications between 0.75x and 1.5x.
Image quality is excellent and working distance relatively high. This lens shows
no chromatic aberration, either axial or transversal.